Why the Marche?
Travelers who want the best of central Italy are now heading for Le Marche,
the third region, alongside Tuscany and Umbria, that makes up the area. It
is pronounced "lay markay", is plural (Le Marche) and is sometimes
translated into English as "The Marches".
The region lies on the eastern
side of central Italy, between the Adriatic Sea and the high Apennine
mountains and much of it remains unspoilt by the ravages of mass tourism.
True, the Adriatic coast has been a mecca for "sun n' sand" holiday
makers for decades; but few venture far from the beaches. Inland, perhaps
more so than anywhere else in central Italy, you will find places where time
really has stood still. Compared to its central Italian sisters, here
culture comes in more easily digestible proportions but quality, as at
Urbino, is often of the very best.
When to go
While it can be hot between mid-July to mid-August, it is rarely overcrowded
and up in the mountains the breezes are cooling.
May, June and September are the ideal months to tour Le Marche if you
can't take the heat; the landscape is clothed in spring green or the first
tints of autumn, any rain tends towards brief showers rather than endless
drizzle, and it's usually possible to find a bed without booking.
The wettest seasons are mid-February to mid-April and mid-October to
mid-December when days of grey mist and rain can set in up in the mountains.
It can also be cold in mid-winter, particularly when the bitter northerly tramontana winds blow.
Where to go
Whether you want to admire masterpieces of Renaissance art and architecture,
trek across wild uncharted mountains or hunt out the best of the catch in a
Mediterranean fishing port, Le Marche has enough to keep you busy for years.
And you will rarely have to jostle with hoardes of other foreign tourists.
Many visitors who come to Le Marche are looking for a taste of the "real"
Italy, unsullied by mass tourism, yet welcoming to foreigners - if that's
what you want, you won't be disappointed.
The main towns
Here is a rundown of the largest towns in the region - click on the names to
get a full "guidebook" entry for the place or go to the places index or the clickable Marche map:
Of the region's principal towns, Urbino is our
favorite. This jewel of a renaissance city remains little changed from the
days when Duke Federico of Montefeltro set up his celebrated court here in
the second half of the 15thC.
The provincial capital of Ascoli Piceno lies at the southern end of Le Marche. This beguiling old town is well worth
at least an overnight stay. Its marble-paved main square is one of the most
beautiful in Italy.
The administrative capital of Le Marche is Ancona, a city
with less obvious attractions for the tourist. Give it time, however, and
you may find you enjoy the salty charm of this bustling sea port. It's also
one of Italy's principal ferry ports with boats to Croatia, Greece and
Turkey.
Another of the region's provincial capitals, Pesaro is both
an appealing seaside resort and a thriving commercial town. Good shops, fine
beaches and great fish.
Another of the region's main centers is Macerata, a
dignified town, famous for its annual outdoor opera festival and capital of the province of Macerata.
The alluring hilltown of Fermo is the
capital of the newly-created province of Fermo and boasts a fine historic
center.
Of the many seaside resorts, the prettiest is Sirolo on the
Conero peninsula. See our beach guide for details of having fun beside the seaside.
Natural wonders Many tourists visit Le Marche for its natural beauty and most of the
spectacular inland mountain country remains unscathed by the worst excesses
of the 20thC. See our nature page
for a run-down of the region's nature parks.
Here are the major sights that should not to be missed:
You'll find some of the most impressive mountain scenery to the south of
the region amidst the Monti Sibillini,
whose peaks are often covered with snow until the late spring.
The Frasassi
caves are some of the most spectacular limestone caves you are every
likely to visit.
Limestone again is the leading player at the Furlo Gorge, a
dramatic natural pass through the mountains that has been in use since
prehistoric times.
Most of Italy's Adriatic coastline is stubbornly flat. Monte Conero,
just south of Ancona, is a rare exception - a high limestone mountain that
plunges into the sea and guards a handful of delightful little bathing
resorts.
The best mountain views to be had in the north of the region, on the
doorstep of Urbino, are around the giant Monte Catria.
In spring the upland meadows are carpeted in alpine flowers.