If we had been able to visit Naples just a few centuries ago we
would have certainly encountered along its narrow streets "o maccaronaro", i.e. an itinerant
vendor of pasta dishes. A precursor of the fast-food concept, he is depicted in paintings of
the day with his steaming caldron of boiling water, a bowl full of grated pecorino cheese and
black pepper always ready to spice up the pasta. A real bargain for just two cents.
Those were other times, of course, but to fully appreciate Neapolitan
cuisine we must not forget the century's old tradition that this ancient city's cuisine is based upon.
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A history of pasta and inventiveness that culminates in a glorious example of simplicity and flavor, namely,
Spaghetti with tomato sauce. But a quick survey of typical Neapolitan first courses wouldn't be
complete without mentioning mussel soup, baked Rigatoni and Vermicelli with clams. One has to also
mention arancini (fried rice balls) and "gatto'" (another fried specialty) with potatoes, excellent
both as an antipasto or a quick snack to eat at any time of day.
As a matter of fact, the fried-food shops happen to be an excellent way
to get to know authentic Neapolitan cooking, everything from the potato croquettes to mozzarella in
carrozza (fried mozzarella sandwiches), to be eaten piping hot and stringy, straight from the boiling oil.
All you have to do is stop at any restaurant and browse through the menu to find stuffed eggplant,
fried anchovies, stewed rabbit all'ischitana, tripe, liver roulades or the typical thin veal cutlets
(scaloppine) cooked in a delightfully fragrant oregano sauce.
DON'T MISS THESE DESSERTS
The pastries deserve special mention, especially the Neapolitan pastiera (Easter cake), a genuine
highpoint of the local gastronomic tradition. This tantalizing delicacy is stuffed with grain that's
been boiled in milk, ricotta, citron, candied orange and other ingredients brimming with Mediterranean
flavors and aromas, like orange-blossom essential oil. Or let yourself be tempted by a sfogliatella
(puff pastry), best if still hot from the oven, filled with creamy ricotta and served with a generous
dusting of powdered sugar, or a baba', a spongy, rum-soaked Neapolitan delight, a real must for any
self-respecting food and wine tour in Naples. As is the world-famous almond torrone, a type of Neapolitan
nougat specialty.
IT ALL STARTED IN NAPLES
We have not come around to pizza yet because it has become practically synonymous with this city of
irrepressible vitality. Naples has managed to transform a humble, working-class dish into a symbol of
Italy that is known and copied throughout the world. Try a pizza in Naples and you'll discover the
difference for yourself. Maybe it's the water, or the tomatoes, or the local mozzarella, who knows?
But a Margherita prepared in Piedigrotta is truly in a category all by itself.
Courtesy of barilla.com
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