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Pollino National Park


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Pollino

HISTORY, ART AND CULTURE

Since the Paleolithic Age- the comings and goings of peoples and cultures from different places has led to a stratification of history and culture that has witnessed the advent of the Greeks and Romans and later on the Longobards, the Saracens, the Byzantines and finally  the Normans and Spaniards up to  the Unification of Italy and the long adventure of emigration overseas.

One of the oldest and most important prehistoric sites in Europe is  the Grotta- Riparo del Romito near the village of Papasidero. Outside the cave, remains dating from the Upper Paleolithic Age: a Bovid - the Bos primigenius - was carved on the wall of a limestone boulder, “the most magnificent example of verism from the Paleolithic Age in the Mediterranean area” (P. Graziosi).  

Beside the cave, archaeological excavations have brought to light some well-preserved graves with skeletons of individuals short of stature.

Of considerable importance is also another archaeological site at Timpone della Motta and Macchiabbate in the vicinity of the town of Francavilla Marittima.   In the former place, an indigenous inhabited area was found. It already existed when the Achaeian settlers founded Sibari in 720 B.C.  In the latter place, there is an important necropolis near the inhabited area where a wealth of  burial  goods was found.  At San Donato di Ninea, the cave of Sant'Angelo houses an underground church dating from the 5th to 6th centuries A.D., with well-preserved frescoes, altars, columns and architectural works.  In the vicinity of San Sosti, a votive bronze hatchet devoted to the goddess Hera was found; at present, it is exhibited in the British Museum in London.  Well-known in the territories of Valsinni and  Cersosimo are the defensive boundary walls from the 4th century B.C.   Other significant archaeological finds - mainly of burial  goods have been brought to light in the area of Chiaromonte.  

Many are the centuries-old holy places such as churches, sanctuaries and monasteries scattered in the various villages within the Park.  Some of them are located in very spectacular and picturesque spots:  the Santuario della Madonna delle Armi (Sanctuary of Madonna delle Armi) near Cerchiara di Calabria built on a cliff in 1440 still conserves precious frescoes and a silver shrine with the miraculous, sacred image of the Virgin Mary; striking is also the medieval  Chiesa di Santa Maria di Costantinopoli (Church of Santa Maria di Costantinopoli) at Papasidero high up on a cliff  overlooking the river Lao far down below; worth visiting in the Orsomarso mountains is the Santuario della Madonna del Pettoruto (Sanctuary of the Madonna del Pettoruto) at San Sosti built in 1274 by the monks of the Abbazia di Acquaformosa (Abbey of Acquaformosa) and later rebuilt after an earthquake in 1783; unique is the Santuario di Cappelle (Sanctuary of Cappelle)  at Laino Borgo named after   the fifteen small chapels with frescoes depicting scenes from the life of Jesus Christ. 

Outside the village of Chiaromonte one can see the ruins of the Abbazia del Sagittario (Abbey of Sagittario) from the 13th century and those of the Monastero del Ventrile (Monastery of Ventrile) dating from the 14th century.  From the motorway that runs through the Park one can see the fascinating ruins of the Convento di Colloreto (Convent of Colloreto) near Morano Calabro built in 1545, abandoned around the 13th century which  later became a place where bandits found shelter. 

In the historical town center of Morano Calabro -a place with a wealth of art and history-   among the many churches, a few deserve special attention:  the 15th century Chiesa di San Bernardino (Church of St.Bernardino) with its valuable wooden lacunar  and Gothic portal; the Chiesa dei  SS. Pietro e Paolo (Church of St. Peter and St.Paul) with  two statues by Pietro Bernini from the no longer existing convento di Colloreto (convent of Colloreto); la Colleggiata della Maddalena (Collegiate Church of Maddalena) built from the 16th century onwards, whose interior is one of the most interesting examples of the Baroque in Calabria and houses the artworks -  Madonna degli Angioli by Gagini and a polyptych signed and dated by Vavarini in 1477. 

Other religious edifices enhance the villages on Mt.  Pollino:  the Santuario di Santa Maria della Consolazione (Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Consolazione) at Rotonda, the Abbazia di Santa Maria Odigitria (Abbey of Santa Maria Odigitria) at San Basile with its 13th century Madonna Coronata, the Monastero di Santa Maria del Monte (Monastery of Santa Maria del Monte) at Acquaformosa, the Chiesa Bizantina di Santa Sofia (Byzantine Church of Santa Sofia) at Papasidero with frescoes depicting St. Sophia and St. Giles, the Chiese dei santi apostoli Pietro e Paolo (Churches of SS. Apostoli Pietro e Paolo) at Frascineto, the Cattedrale di San Nicola di Mira (Cathedral of San Nicola di  Mira) at Lungro with its precious iconostasis, and the Chiesa della Visitazione (Church of the Visitation) at Aieta with its beautiful 18th century portal.

In addition to the places of worship there are ancient fortifications and palaces : at Chiaromonte, Senise, Morano Calabro, Grisolia, Mormanno and Castrovillari as well as the ruins of an Aragonese castle dating from 1490.  At Valsinni stands the medieval castle that belonged to the great 16th century poet Isabella Morra whose name was made known by Benedetto Croce.  Her lyrics have inspired the establishment of a "Literature Park". 

Particularly striking is the historical town center of Laino Castello, an ancient village overlooking the Valle del Lao (Lao River Valley) that was completely abandoned after an earthquake in the early 1980s.  Other villages of historical  interest are Orsomarso with its unusual Clock Tower built on the cliff, Papasidero, Civita with its peculiar chimneypots, Viggianello, Rotonda with its portals and precious friezes carved by local stone-cutters. 

In the past, splendid watermills added beauty to the area and some of them still exist today like the one at "Ricchie Muzze" near Francavilla sul Sinni; other mills built between the 14th and 17th centuries are located near San Severino and at Mezzana where one can see the great millstones that were once in use. 

THE ARBĖRESHE COMMUNITY.

Between 1470 and 1540, just after the death of their leader Castriota Skanderbeg,  groups of Albanians in flight from Turkish militias settled in the regions of Calabria and Lucania and founded communities where they kept their history alive.

True to their traditions, their customs and their language, they have succeeded in safeguarding their arbėreshe culture in the towns they founded: Acquaformosa, Civita, San Basile, Lungro, Plataci, Frascineto, San Costantino Albanese, and San Paolo Albanese. The Albanian community in the Pollino area is one of the most firmly rooted in Italy. 

At Civita and at San Paolo Albanese, two villages where agriculture and sheep grazing are still being practised,  there are museums  commemorating arbėreshe  heritage where many objects, tools and traditional garb  are on exhibit. 

Pollino Park

Of great religious interest are the church services in the Byzantine-Greek rite such as weddings.  In some places, fabric from broom fibers is still woven by hand  following age-old procedures passed on from mother to daughter like the splendid costumes for daily use and for festive occasions with  songs and Vallje - unusual dances where the Arbėreshe dancers are tied together  with scarves    so as to preserve their memory and pass it on to future generations.

THE TRADITIONS

Various rites celebrate the relationship of Man with the mountains.  For example, during the feast of Madonna di Pollino celebrated on the first Friday, Saturday and Sunday in July, a procession winds its way up to the sanctuary of the Virgin Mary at an altitude of 1537 mts in the vicinity of San Severino Lucano; the feast of the Madonna di Pettoruto at San Sosti is celebrated on the first Sunday in May with a ceremony called "cerimonia della Cinta", and from the 1st to the 8th September to commemorate the anniversary of the reconstruction; the "Giudaica" of Laino Borgo takes place  on Good Friday every two years; the feast of St. Ann is celebrated on the  Sunday following the 26th of July at San Lorenzo Bellizzi and finally the feast of San Rocco with its famous sickle dance which takes place on the 16th of August at San Paolo Albanese.

Courtesy of Parco Nazionale del Pollino

San Donato di Ninea Web site



(c) 1997-2008 E. Massetti
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